In May 2024, Aida Lab fieldwork was held in Bali, Indonesia. The fieldwork, titled "More-Than-Human Connectivities of the Mountain, River, Village, and the Ocean in Bali: Indigenous Knowledge, Local Commons, and Regenerative Tourism", 17 participants with diverse backgrounds from Japan and abroad, including landscape design researchers, researchers on plant use in Southeast Asia, experts on circular economy, practitioners of watershed tourism, community-based tourism, and regenerative tourism in various regions, and corporate executives. This was Aida Lab's first overseas fieldwork, co-organized by Mr. Takuto Nagata, who has participated in Aida Lab since its early days. In this article, he looks back on the trip from the perspective as an organizer.
The Beginning of the Journey
Over the past three years, I have participated in various fieldworks organized by "Aida Lab" around Japan. Some of the places I've been include Kesennuma (June 2022), Miyazaki/Kumamoto (October 2023), Ise/Toba (October 2022), Tottori (May 2023), and Kyoto/Keihoku (November 2021/October 2022). At each destination, I observed how the local culture, climate, and environmental challenges interweave to create the narrative of the region.
Around the autumn of 2023, I reunited in Japan with Wira, a person I had met in Bali two years prior. Wira runs a tourism company in Bali based on the concept of "Community-Based Tourism." As we spoke, I realized that the themes we had explored as "Aida Lab" in Japan, such as the stories connecting the mountains and the sea and the environmental burdens, were mirrored on the island of Bali. This recognition led us to conceive a new fieldwork centered around the Subak system, which mediates the relationship between the mountains and the sea.
In this article, I would like to write about how the idea for this fieldwork began and what kinds of worlds and people we encountered during the trip.
(Participants who joined the fieldwork)
About Five Pillars Experience and Local Heroes
For this trip, we were navigated and had various field arrangements made by Five Pillars Experience, a company based in Bali. Under the concept of "Community-Based Tourism," they organize travel programs that focus on local people and places typically not visited by ordinary tourism. They introduce locals engaged in various activities as "local heroes." For example, on the third day, we visited a village in northern Bali and explored its enduring culture, translating its story to visitors from Europe and Asia (an apt example of a company that restores interconnections).
(Wira, Representative of Five Pillars)
Exploring connectivities from the mountain and the ocean rooted in indigenous belief
The entire program spanned four days and three nights. We gathered at the airport in southern Bali, used Ubud in the central part of the island as our base, and ended by visiting villages in northern Bali. The journey, covering over 80 km from south to north amidst heavy urban traffic and mountainous roads, presented us with a shifting landscape as we moved from one altitude and community to another.
（Trip route of the tour）
Facility Manifesting "Co-prosperity": Mana Earthly Paradise (Day 1)
On the first day, we visited a facility called Mana Earthly Paradise, where we held orientations and used it as our accommodation base. This facility is operated in connection with the organization Earth Company, a general incorporated association, and on that day, we had the opportunity to speak with one of its representatives, Asuka.
Mana was created as a place that embodies Earth Company's mission of "a regenerative way of living where people and nature coexist prosperously." The facility generates local employment, uses reclaimed materials sourced from across Indonesia for its buildings, and operates with 100% renewable energy for its lighting, minimizing its environmental impact.
In addition to these initiatives, walking through the beautifully maintained gardens of the hotel, you encounter a variety of plants, insects, and animals, making you feel a compelling sense of being part of this ecosystem. It was striking how often Asuka mentioned the word "co-prosperity with nature" during her talk. This place truly allows you to physically experience and understand that concept.
(Garden of Mana where many species resonates)
(Session inside Mana)
Artistic Culture Reflecting Bali's Cosmology: Kecak Dance (Day 1 evening)
On the first night, we watched a traditional Balinese dance called Kecak. The performance took place at a temple in the town center, about 20 minutes by car from Mana's accommodation. Kecak is performed in various locations besides Ubud. More than 30 men sit in a circle inside the temple building, creating rhythm solely with their voices. In the center, scenes from the "Ramayana," one of the Hindu epics, are danced. The overlapping rhythms create a wave-like pattern that feels cosmic and reflects Balinese cosmology.
Kecak is a traditional Balinese ritual based on the dance "Sanghyang," which uses vocal rhythms. In the 1930s, a group led by German artist Walter Spies adapted it into an art form, and this version has been passed down to this day. The performance, which blends traditional culture with Western perspectives, takes place at temples, the center of local faith. This fusion symbolizes Bali's ability to cherish indigenous beliefs while embracing Western culture.
Moreover, Bali still has organizations called "Banjar," which function like local cooperatives. Kecak dances are performed by Banjar groups in each region, and the revenue from the performances is returned to the village. Most of the spectators were foreign tourists, but the foreign currency earned contributes to strengthening village ties and preserving traditional culture. The intricate history of how this ancient culture was rediscovered and nurtured by Europeans left a lasting and intriguing impression on me.
(Venue of the Kecak dance. It was raining so was held inside a building)
Mangrove Restoration Site Visit (Day 2)
On the morning of the second day, we moved from Ubud to the southern region and visited a mangrove restoration site. Mangroves are a general term for trees that form forests in estuarine brackish water areas (the term "mangrove" does not refer to a specific species). They are important for both marine ecosystems and humans, as they help restore marine ecosystems and reduce the damage from tsunamis. Therefore, mangrove forest restoration is being conducted worldwide.
The site we visited in Bali is one of the largest and most advanced efforts on the island. It also serves as a model to share the knowledge gained here with other sites. This initiative was not driven by a top-down approach from the government, but rather started by local fishermen who were concerned about the decline in fish populations. Now, nearly 100 people are involved in the reforestation activities, including those with lighter commitments.
One of the major challenges is garbage removal. Despite daily efforts to clear the garbage, trash from other countries continues to wash ashore, hindering the growth of the mangroves.
(Visited the restoration site by Kayak)
(Garbage is flowing to the mangrove site even the local people remove them every day)
Faith and Water Management Infrastructure: Taman Ayun Temple (Day 2)
After visiting the mangrove restoration site, we headed slightly north to Taman Ayun Temple, a site of great significance for understanding Bali's irrigation and faith.
Taman Ayun Temple was built in the 17th century by the then-ruling Badung dynasty. As detailed below, Bali's irrigation is managed through a 1,200-year-old water management system called "Subak," and Taman Ayun Temple is a crucial part of this system. The temple area has a mechanism for storing water from the mountains and rainwater, creating a reservoir-like environment around the temple. Water is distributed to various regions through this site.
What is particularly interesting is that, as a temple, this facility is an essential center of Balinese Hindu faith. It combines water management infrastructure with religious significance. Balinese faith integrates mountains and the sea, reflected architecturally in the temple. The multi-tiered towers point to the mountains, with a "sea of milk" below them, embodying a design that honors water. This philosophy of valuing water is practically and spiritually integrated into the irrigation design, symbolizing that the facility is shared by all water users. This reflects why Bali's ancient cultural practices continue to be actively implemented today.
(The reservoir surrounding Taman Ayun Temple. Water is distributed from this pond to various parts of Bali.)
(Taman Ayun Temple. The multi-tiered tower points to the mountains, and the water represents the sea.)
A Water Sharing System Lasting Over 1,000 Years: Penarungan's Subak and Settlement (Day 2)
Next, we visited a household in the Penarungan area, a short distance from Taman Ayun Temple, to observe the Subak system in practice. More than just a method of irrigation, Subak is a system that connects upstream and downstream water sources, forming the foundation of Balinese life where farmers are interconnected and practice their faith. The traditional Balinese philosophy of "Tri Hita Karana," which aims to harmonize the gods, humans, and nature, is deeply reflected in the management of Subak. For example, if only one person were to grow rice, birds eating the crops would force that farmer to eliminate them to prevent future damage. However, when a large field is managed collectively as in Subak, the damage caused by birds is minimal, eliminating the need for such measures.
Agriculture in Bali has been practiced under the Subak system for centuries. However, since the Green Revolution policies of the 1960s, non-native rice varieties, chemical fertilizers, and pesticides have been widely introduced to increase agricultural productivity. While these policies had short-term benefits, over time, issues arose. For instance, initially effective pesticides became less so as resistant strains of pests developed. Today, there are efforts to gradually shift from these Green Revolution practices to more sustainable methods, such as integrating livestock farming to promote nutrient cycling.
Nevertheless, the Subak system faces challenges. During dinner, Professor Gede Sedana from Udayana University, who researches Balinese agriculture, mentioned that the younger generation is increasingly moving away from farming, leading to an aging farming population. Additionally, the development of roads and other infrastructure is reducing the land area available for Subak. Many farmers find it more profitable to sell their land for hotels rather than continue farming, leading to a conversion of agricultural land. This situation reflects the tug-of-war between deeply rooted local culture and the attractions of modern civilization seen worldwide.
(Water way of Subak system which is still now under use)
(Scenery of Penarungun area)
A Village in Northern Bali Where Indigenous Faith Has Been Cultivated: Tigawasa Village (Day 3)
On the third day, we traveled north from Ubud in the island's center, crossing the mountains to visit Tigawasa, a village located over three hours away. Despite the car nearly getting stuck along the way, we reached this village near the mountain summit, offering a breathtaking view of the sea from the mountains. We were welcomed by Gunter, a "local hero" from the village working to promote bamboo crafts as a local industry, and his family.
After a wonderful lunch made with locally grown ingredients, we had the opportunity to speak with the village priest, a spiritual leader who preserves the local faith. According to the priest, this village has existed for over 1,000 years. The indigenous animistic beliefs blended with the ideas of a group that arrived around 800 AD, teaching an external faith, transitioning into the unique practice connecting the mountains and the sea that continues today. Even now, for important village events (like funerals), a procession carries a portable shrine down the mountain to the sea, taking about three hours, where the shrine is purified in the ocean. The village manages shrines in both the mountains and the sea; the mountain shrine is revered as the forest itself, while the sea has two shrines right on the beachfront.
During our visit, we were guided on part of the journey from the mountain to the sea. Descending from the village, we reached the "forest shrine," which stood out with its lush greenery compared to the surrounding forest. Various rituals are conducted here. Continuing through the forest shrine, we reached a resting spot halfway down the mountain, then drove to the beach, where we took a boat into the sunset-lit sea. The contrast between the mountain and sea was particularly striking; the forest teemed with diverse plants and creatures, presenting a complex tapestry, while the sea, extending endlessly, exuded a consuming tranquility and grandeur. The local faith emphasizes the cycle of water flowing from the mountains to the sea and returning as rain, and the landscape vividly illustrated this cycle.
(Forest itself is the object of worship)
(Went down from the mountain to the sea)
Landfill Site for Southern Bali's Garbage: Suwung (Day 4)
On the final day, we traveled south from northern Bali to the area near the airport, visiting the TPA Suwung, Bali's garbage collection site, intentionally left for the end of our itinerary. This facility handles all the waste from southern Bali. Since Bali lacks incineration facilities, all waste ultimately ends up to this main accumulation site. It's said that the waste generated by tourists is four times that of the local residents, highlighting the severe waste problem in Bali, a place heavily reliant on the tourism industry. Recently, methane gas produced by the volume of waste has caused fires, leading to severe air pollution and other environmental damage.
Due to regulations, foreigners were not allowed inside Suwung, so we visited a nearby area where a community makes a living by collecting recyclable items from the garbage heap. We also visited the Bali Life Foundation, an NPO that has established an educational facility for children in this community. The government cannot build schools in this area due to air pollution from the garbage, and parents spend their days collecting recyclable items within Suwung, leaving children without a proper place. The Bali Life Foundation aims to improve this situation by providing educational opportunities for children and teaching local women sewing and other crafts, helping them become self-sufficient without relying on garbage collection.
After witnessing the harsh realities contrasting with the beautiful village from the previous day, we concluded our program with this final visit.
(Entrance of Suwung. You can see the garbage mountain in the right)
(Entrance of Bali Life Foundation)
Reflections on the Journey
In this program, I repeatedly encountered the theme of "the unity of opposites." This was evident in the way the sea, considered impure in teachings, and the "sacred mountains" are worshipped together, and in the way modern developments have exacerbated the waste problem, yet traditional culture is preserved through a Western gaze, as seen with Kecak.
Bali is an island that, while strongly preserving ancient customs, flexibly embraces new things, allowing for a blend of diverse elements in a state of balance. A conversation with a fellow participant led us to think that because Bali is an island, various cultures that arrived could not leave, resulting in their mixing. This aspect seemed similar to Japan.
We often have biases of good and evil, seeing "the world we want to see." However, reality is likely composed of multiple worlds overlapping and competing. My experience in Bali was significant in helping me understand this multilayered nature of the world.
Text: Takuto Nagata
Edit: Yasuhiro Kobayashi
(View from Tigawasa village looking the ocean)
Takuto Nagata
My theme is the design of culture, infrastructure, and public goods that restore ecosystems while integrating and regenerating people and communities into their rhythm. After working in infrastructure development and investment (airports, energy, etc.) at an infrastructure investment company and at a strategic consulting firm, founded Longtide, Inc. I promoted capital raising for Shizen Energy Inc., regional renewable energy projects, and regenerative agriculture projects using soil microorganisms. While exploring the role of public goods that connect nature and humans, I encountered Ecological Memes and have been continuously participating in early gatherings and fieldwork. Graduated from the Faculty of Economics at Keio University and the IESE Business School in Europe.
About AIDA Lab
AIDA Lab is a laboratory for exploring and practicing to redefine the relationship between humans and the environment in the era of regeneration beyond dualism, and to initiate things toward a co-thriving future. Through [un]learning across the fields of ecology, business, design, and anthropology in more than human perspectives, and through deepening physical experience via fieldwork conducted with local partners across countries, we aim to be a catalyst for initiating regenerative and life-affirming projects and businesses rooted in ecological knowledge, local & vernacular wisdom and physical sensation.
About Ecological Memes
Ecological Memes is a Japan-based cross-disciplinary community, rethinking human-nature relations beyond dualism and exploring emerging inter-relationalities of individual, society and planet by interweaving East and West philosophies towards a co-thriving future.